Health is Wealth

102

Spending an afternoon at Bowls is interesting.  The waves are much more cleaner than the morning.  The crowd is totally different.  And the whole vibe is more stoke.  I’ve been trying to teach this girl how to take off from the top of the wave and she finally figured it out!  This is where you want to start your bottom turn.  

Super stoked to surf with Nori-san.  He owns Pioneer Saloon near Diamond Head which is very delicious.  Good surf and good food is the dream life!  

The day has come!  We’ve worked so hard to get to where we are today.  Twin fin short board, smooth bottom turn, knees bent, looking forward, and most importantly, SMILING!  Surfing doesn’t get any cooler than this.  Not to mention, all that surfing and paddling we’ve been doing has formed a very fit body.  Health is wealth!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide