When I see someone on a perfect wave like this, sometimes I yell “DO SOMETHING!!!” In this case it was Dean and the wave looked absolutely perfect.
It’s been a dream summer for long boarders.
When I pulled up to Diamond Head yesterday, I saw a guy taking off and immediately I knew it was Hayato. I surfed with him so much that I can tell just by the way he paddles.
So I zoom in and watch the action. That is Hayato taking off and Nori-san in the back watching.
Off the lip and a complete ride. So cool to pull up to a surf spot and seeing one of your friends ripping it.
