Every Single Day

74

Started off with another beautiful day!  Clear morning, nice waves, and perfect conditions.  Every single day!

Super happy for this girl.  Watching her life getting better day by day.  As long as you know how to have fun surfing, you’re on the right path…

Splash!

Spent the morning riding behind the girls.  The good thing is I don’t have to yell and scold them that much anymore.  Haha.

Came home for lunch.  Avocado and toast.  This morning at Bowls, Matt was talking about bacon so I was craving bacon when I got home.

Then back out for Round 2.  The Diamond Head locals Cedric and Lance.  I’ve known these guys for 35 years and they still surf as good as they did back then.  These were the guys winning all the amateur contests.  Good to see them healthy and happy.  And also surfing every single day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide