Whenever I coach someone, I always ask for their goals. In the beginning, this girls goal was just to surf and have fun. She accomplished that a while ago. After that, I kind of set her goals for her. I told her that in order to become a good and respected surfer, you must follow these rules.
1. Surf good: The better you surf, the more you will be respected.
2. Learn mannerism: Let the Uncle’s have priority because your day of being an Aunty will come.
3. Paddle around: Never paddle straight back out to the lineup after riding a wave. Paddle around so you don’t get into anyones way.
4. Catch and Ride: If you paddle for a wave, you better catch it no matter what. No surfer likes to see waves going to waste.
5. Don’t complain: Just be lucky we can surf here every single day. Appreciate the ocean, and appreciate Mother Nature.
6. Smile: Don’t make weird faces, just relax, smile, and enjoy the ride.
So yesterday we go to Bowls and the waves are absolutely perfect. A perfect set comes and I say “GO!” I follow behind filming the action. There’s power, there’s flow, and there’s style. This girl is ripping!
After the first turn, I see her setting up for another one. It was so beautiful to see. We come back to the beach and she had the biggest smile on her face. I didn’t even have to ask how her session was because her smile said everything…