Seventy Percent

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Neal sent me this photo 6 weeks ago.  This was the day I injured my knee.  It was a small day but these are the days surfers usually get hurt.  Since then, I’ve been doing intensive physical therapy with my Doctor 2x a week, and more intensive physical therapy the other 5 days a week by myself.  Even though this is supposed to be a 3-4 month injury, I was determined to get back in the ocean before my trip.    

Neal sent me these photos just now.  This was the past swell we had.  Four weeks into my injury, I’m surfing at 70%.  My knee still hurts so I’m still holding back somewhat.    

All that physical training I’ve been doing every morning at 3am when I wake up has made me stronger.  If this is 70%, I can’t wait till I’m back at a 100%.  Thank you Neal for this photo because it’s inspiring me to get mentally stronger, physically stronger, so I can surf stronger than ever.

By the way, I hope my Doctor doesn’t see this.  He will scold me.  I’m only supposed to be going straight on a longboard.  Opps…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide