After 4 weeks of not standing up, it felt so good to surf again. Standing up for the first time the other day felt the same when I caught my first wave at 7 years old. 
It’s crazy how you can be injured but still surf. I limp at home and on the beach, but once I’m in the ocean, the pain is totally gone. 
If I were to choose just one surfboard out of my 80 board collection, this would be it. This one is definitely going to Indonesia with me. 
It seems pretty far away from the camera, but it’s actually very close. Neal’s shooting with a fisheye lens so the closer you get, the better the photo will be. The only thing is it’s very dangerous so you kind of have to trust each other. 
I’ve been surfing my entire life but having the most fun right now. Crazy how life only gets better with age. More appreciation, more simple, and more flow. This is my happy place…
Thank you again Neal Miyake for putting yourself in very uncomfortable positions. You’re the man!
