It was 30 years ago when I went on my very first surf trip to Bali. Back then, Bali was a lot different. Less people, buildings, noise, and undiscovered waves. Tokura-san brought me to Kuta Beach on the very first day. I surfed it and wasn’t too sure why Indonesia was supposed to be special. The next day, we got on a big sailboat and crossed some islands. We woke up at Scar Reef and it was pumping. My first wave was a very big, scary, and powerful barrel. It was then I understood why Indonesia was the most sought out wave in the whole wide world.
Tokura-san and I were talking about that first trip while surfing Kuta this morning. And guess where we’re going tomorrow? Yes, Scar Reef on a forecasted pumping swell! This is a full circle of 30 years for us. We know things will be a lot different there, but the experience is what we’re in for. Just to be able to come back together to a very special place after 30 years, we are very grateful. I think growing up, you appreciate things more. I’m just glad to be alive because a lot has happened in those past 30 years….
