It’s been day 4 and the waves have been big and pumping every single day since we arrived. Our typical day starts with the morning surf check. The only way for the surf report here is to go to the beach and look for yourself. Surfline doesn’t work here.
Yoyo’s has been pumping everyday. So big that it’s almost out of control. Yesterday morning I saw a couple ridable ones and nobody was out surfing. I went to paddle out to get a couple and when I got closer to the wave, it was way bigger than I thought. Took off on a couple waves holding on to my life with my 5″10. There’s no room for error and nobody will come out and save you here. So you’re basically on your own. The is what I live for. 
After lunch, we drove around looking for waves and found this empty spot. Just our group having the time of our lives. I’ve been traveling around the world surfing with Tokura-san for 31 years, and it only gets better. It’s now my dream to be surfing as good as him when I’m 74 years old. I’m totally inspired. 
And watching Matsu foil was beautiful. Flying past me like a bird made me want to foil again. After those 2 amazing seasons, I went back to my room to get a nice massage. I was in my massage feeling so relaxed when I get a text from Kimura-san. I open it and got a good laugh. 
This was the first photo. Haha. I couldn’t stop laughing. Tokura-san isn’t just the coolest surfer in the world, he has a great sense of humor. Now you know what us kids are doing between surf sessions. Haha. I was laughing so hard that my massage masseuse thought I was weird. 
Then the next photo Kimura-san sends me was this. Hahaha. I was laughing even harder. I couldn’t stop laughing so I had to end my massage right then and there. There went my relax time. Haha.
Traveling keeps us all young and energetic. It’s part of our lives. It’s part of our soul. Without it, we’d be empty….
