Full Circle Completed

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For this trip, Indonesia was the main focus for surfing.  I just thought that we’d be lucky if Japan had surf too.  Because Japan is so fickle when it comes to waves, you have to think like that.  If you score in Indonesia, it’s normal.  But in Japan, luck is a big factor.  And since it’s my brothers first surf trip to Japan, we were extremely lucky!  Surfing this spot with just a few other locals was pretty awesome.  And seeing my brother surf again was even more awesome.  

When I was in High School, Mason was one of the best surfers in our school.  He was the first guy I actually seen getting barreled.  I still have that moment pictured in my mind and ever since then, I wanted the same.  Now he surfs once in every 10 years and is locked into the 80’s surfer style, which looks cool.

Back to Sumbawa.  Tokura-san and I got to see first hand the waves we surfed together 30 years ago.  It was like completing the full circle and now we can move on to more exploring.  We got to see it with our own eyes our feelings are mixed.  I’ll explain that a little later.  

The waves were huge so the lineups were empty.  That’s exactly what I live for.  High risk and higher reward!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide