A 2000 Surfers Compliment

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Takahata-san and I went out to Bowls early this morning for day 2 of Boot Camp.  Compared to yesterday, he was surfing a lot better.  Some of my local friends were telling me how good Takahata-san surfed.  Getting a compliment at Bowls is rare so he must have been doing something right.

The conditions were really nice again.  The trade winds started to blow again so nice off shore waves.

I just love photos like this.  I’m riding behind yelling “hit the lip!!!”  And when he hit the lip, I get this sweet shot!

Takahata-san was a very happy surfer.  20 years experience and things will only get better from today.  Wonderful surfing!  After that session I went right back out for Round 2.  Pulled up to Bowls at 6am and left at 11am.  I left sunburnt and content….

I have about 1000 photos and 300 videos of our trip that I still haven’t looked through.  Hopefully things will slow down to a point where I can sit down and relive all those wonderful moments.  Stay tuned…

The yen/dollar rate was 149 yesterday so I went to the bank to reload on some yen.  Starting to save for my next Japan trip so this is a good time to buy yen.  The bank gave me some 2000 yen notes.  I haven’t seen this before?  Pretty cool!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide