Wow, the surf report has been reporting 3-5′ for the past few days and today it finally showed up. The waves and conditions were perfect!
Kitsukawa-san has only been surfing for 1 year. I was really impressed on how fast he learned. Today he wanted to turn so that’s what we focused on.
It was cool to see Kitsukawa-san turning for the first time in his life! I was so stoked watching him enjoying the moment. Shortly after this, he was back on an airplane to Japan. Surf and travel. Smart man!
I finally got to look at some photos Matsu took. Here is Yo-yo’s as big as it gets. So big that nobody was out for days.
I paddled out just for the challenge. I told myself that even though I don’t catch a wave, it’s ok. I surfed there 30 years ago and just wanted to feel what 30 years later felt like. I’m older and wiser now, but the risks are still high. Back then if you got hurt, you could die alone. I never use to think about it, but now I do. So having my friends on the beach was comforting. I caught 4 waves and thought that was enough for the day. Then the nightmare of coming in and walking over the reef. It’s called “The Rockdance.”
When you’re traveling with some of the most important people in your life, you have time to reflect on things. There were a few moments I had tears in my eyes when I got back to my room. The feeling of being in such a remote area with people you’ve been traveling with for decades, and still do gets emotional. I am literally here because of these people, and now we are here together. Very emotional at times. These are the times you will never ever forget…
