Morning session: Waves really good. Here’s Carter getting ready to spray me. 
These are the moments where action meets nature. 
I don’t mind getting sprayed by friends. But nobody else. 
It’s only the beginning of October but Christmas is here! 
Want to thank Dove Wetsuits for making me this beautiful custom long sleeve top. This is perfect for winter surf in Hawaii. I can’t wait to wear it!
Ever since she was 2 years old, she fell in love with surfing. So when ever she asked me to take her surfing, I never once said no. No matter how tired or busy I was, I made the time. The ocean makes us happy, the ocean makes us calm, and the ocean fixes everything. 
Fast forward 20 years and many epic surf sessions together, she still asks me to take her surfing. And even now, I’ll never say no. This is what I live for. Watching this beautiful young woman growing year by year brings me so much joy. The ocean made our relationship 10x better and deeper and I’m very thankful for that. Surfing is our life…
