Indonesia Surf Aliens

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Getting back to our Indo trip.  I was talking to one of the locals on the beach at Scar Reef.  When I told him that I surfed here 30 years ago, he was really surprised.  He told me nobody surfed here back then.  He told me there was nothing or nobody on the beach back then.  And he told me that he wasn’t even born back then.  So basically nobody saw our big sailboat pull up, us jumping into the surf, and getting barreled back then.  And if they did, that would have been very weird.  Surf aliens?  Imagine that.

Just up the coast from Scar Reef, there’s a spot named “Phantoms.”  We couldn’t see it from the front but as soon as we jumped off the boat from the back, I could feel the strong energy of the ocean.  As we paddled towards the shallow ledge, my mind was thinking “ok, this is not your typical perfect clean Indonesia wave, this is more like North Shore or Tahiti.  Except there is nobody who’s going to help you if you get hurt.  So if you paddle for a wave, you better commit.  My first wave was one just to test the wave and reef out.  Then the second wave was pulling into the barrel!  This uncertainty is what makes surfing remote spots like this very addicting.  

Mateus can climb the Koko Head trail in 30 minutes.  That’s amazing!

One of my wheels of my $1200 Rimowa suitcase broke.

Just go to a Rimowa store and they will sell you a new wheel for $30.  Not too bad considering these suitcases are the best in the world.  I would never travel with anything else…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide