good evening. last night before i slept, i looked at all the weather
charts and swell forecasts so i knew what to expect this morning. a huge
building swell that will hit before lunch but the morning with smaller
but better conditions. i paddle out before sunrise and play the waiting
game. everybody was out, everybody was hungry, and everybody was super
aggressive. i wait an hour and this good size perfect backdoor wave
comes my way. i take off, i bottom turn, and i get barreled.
photographer gordinho was down the beach and snapped this photo as i
came out from the barrel. happy? yes sir!!!
today was the real first day of pipe for locals. i seen the biggest
barrels, and the heaviest wipeouts. got it all on video so stay tuned. i
solid 8′ set broke in front of me, i threw my board, dove down to the
reef 5′ under, grabbed a ledge, and the wave picked me up from behind,
threw me over, and slammed me into the reef. luckily i landed on my foot
and back. if it was my head, i’d be in the hospital. i was having fun
surfing, watching, and feeling the power of the ocean. there’s no place
compared to pipeline today.
