Lessons Learned

95

Check out these drone shots Matsu took at Yoyo’s.  Now it’s pretty easy to explain things.  Yoyo’s was really big the whole time we were there so one of my friends in Hawaii asked me, “why didn’t you guys surf in the inside?”  As you can see, there is no inside.  The inside is dry reef!!!

The reefs in Indonesia are so cool.  They have these little channels going through the lineup.  I use those channels as guides to paddle out, and paddle in.  You can’t see it when you’re actually in the water, so you have to go by feel.  It will suck you out, and suck you in!  Just don’t miss it…

Every morning we would wake up early in Wakayama and take a 30 minute walk.  Stretch on the beach, and observe nature.  

Pretty crazy how these crabs can live so far inland.  I always wonder if you can eat them?  

These snowboard photos popped up on my iPhone.  Made me want to go back and play in the powder snow in Niseko again!  

Next time I’ll be sure to take warmer inner clothes because last time I almost froze to death.  Minus 18 degrees celsius with one tshirt was my problem.  Lessons learned…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide