Hanging out with the legends of Bali was fun. I’ve known Leon and Ganti since my first trip to Bali in 1994. They still surf, they still smile, and they still take care of the boys. I respect those guys a lot! 
Yesterday the waves were small so I went for a workout instead. Foiled out at Bowls and caught 15 waves in an hour, rode my last one to the beach, and almost had a heart attack. This morning I surfed for 2 hours and wasn’t even tired. Foiling is the best workout ever.
I miss the days when I use to drive the kids down to the beach. I would take photos of them and laugh because they were so small and cute. Renta, Shun, Seth, and Joshua at Kewalos.
We spent 2 weeks on a boat in the Maldives. We played drinking games, danced, and did other stupid things. Sometimes all night long. But come 5am, we got up and did our job, which was to surf and get the photos for the magazine. Four pro surfers, 2 pro bodyboarders, and two world famous photographers. We all knew how to party, and all knew how to work. That was a successful trip. 
Diving all these years, I saw the coolest things. It’s all so amazing.
I had a request from a Japanese magazine called “Surfer Girls” to get a photo of Haunani. It was so easy because Haunani surfs good, looks good, and smiles good. The photos came out so beautiful that Surfer Girls used one on the cover. Stoked!
