Everybody was expecting the swell to be bigger and more consistent today.  BUT, it was the opposite.  Not enough waves for all the locals at Bowls means tension in the air.  I felt like I was at a heavy local spot in Japan or something.  Visitors rode nothing.  

The swell has a lot of westerly direction so the rights are as good as it gets.  I rode my best right of the year so far.  It was endless.  

What are you doing this Saturday night?  I hope you go and see the new surf movie at Kahala Mall.  It’s called:

HIFF: TRILOGY: NEW WAVE + HOMECOMING + STOKER MACHINE

Starring (Griffin Colapinto, Seth Moniz and Ethan Ewing).  A hard core surf movie is what I was craving for!  

Movie starts at 6:15pm at Kahala Theatres.  Big comfortable seats that recline.  Being your drink and buy some popcorn. See you guys there!