After a wonderful surf at Bowls this morning, I came home and started to clean places I haven’t cleaned in 25 years. I got on my hands and knees , crawled under my house, and started throwing things away. Whenever I put things on my street, I don’t put it in trash can because someone always comes and takes things before the rubbish truck comes. The saying goes “one mans trash is another mans treasure.”
Then I find something covered in dirt on the bottom of all my broken surfboards. It’s a classic Town and Country single fin! OMG! This board has been under my house for over 30 years!
So I stopped everything and cleaned it up. All the time thinking about how I’m going to take this board out to big Sunset Beach and ride huge waves like I use to back in the 80’s.
In 1988, I remember riding a 6’8 Town and Country board on huge closeout days at Sunset Beach with Tony. This one is a 7’1 so it should be easy. I’m so excited to try!
After I cleaned it up, I sent the photos to Glenn Minami because he shaped it. He told me he shaped this board 42 years ago! I asked him if he thinks it will handle big Sunset. He replied “just got to try it.” That’s exactly what I’m going to do this winter!