Surf Cleanup Day: Trash is Treasure

68

After a wonderful surf at Bowls this morning, I came home and started to clean places I haven’t cleaned in 25 years.  I got on my hands and knees , crawled under my house, and started throwing things away.  Whenever I put things on my street, I don’t put it in trash can because someone always comes and takes things before the rubbish truck comes.  The saying goes “one mans trash is another mans treasure.”    

Then I find something covered in dirt on the bottom of all my broken surfboards.  It’s a classic Town and Country single fin!  OMG!  This board has been under my house for over 30 years!  

So I stopped everything and cleaned it up.  All the time thinking about how I’m going to take this board out to big Sunset Beach and ride huge waves like I use to back in the 80’s.    

In 1988, I remember riding a 6’8 Town and Country board on huge closeout days at Sunset Beach with Tony.  This one is a 7’1 so it should be easy.  I’m so excited to try!

After I cleaned it up, I sent the photos to Glenn Minami because he shaped it.  He told me he shaped this board 42 years ago!  I asked him if he thinks it will handle big Sunset.  He replied “just got to try it.”  That’s exactly what I’m going to do this winter!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide