Shark Feet Sunday

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Had a super fun session at Bowls with Ryuushi-san this morning.  He rode my magic board and we worked on simple technique.  Wave by wave he got better and better.  Excellent surfing!  

The waves were way better than expected.  Absolute perfect conditions!!!  

It got pretty crowded but there were enough waves for everyone.    

While Stu and I were having a conversation, he saw something swim right under us.  He pointed it out and said “tiger shark!”  

Thank goodness it wasn’t a tiger shark, but a shark is a shark.  See it on the right side of this photo?  It was actually hunting something right under our feet.

Then he came back again and again looking for food.  It’s pretty shallow so imagine this thing looking up and thinking your foot is food?

When sharks are hunting right under your feet, it’s time to go in.  So we caught one more and went in.  This was Ryuushi-san’s last wave which was super beautiful.  Another wonderful day in paradise!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide