I get up, check the waves, and it’s very very windy and onshore. Normal surfers go back to sleep but not us. I knew Abe-san was up to the challenge so we paddled out early in the morning as nobody was out. The waves were challenging, but the sky was amazing.
It was really hard to choose the good waves but Abe-san is very experienced. He knows how to go with the flow and that’s what he did. Nobody came out the whole 2 hours we were surfing. Yes, we had the whole ocean to ourselves!
For the past 15 years or so, Abe-san’s been coming to Hawaii once a year and we surf once. I would bring a 10′ longboard for him. Then year after year, we surf again on that same longboard. So basically he surfed once a year only in Hawaii. Then this past February, he asked me about my magic short board. This smart man got one, started surfing in Japan once a week, and is totally hooked on surfing again. When he took off on his first wave, I was totally surprised! He was so good!
Now Abe-san is very energetic, lost a lot of weight, gained muscle, and looks 10 years younger.
I’m so happy for you! A magic board could change your life. And it did!!!
