The waves were onshore this afternoon but after looking at the clouds starting to move off shore, it was just a matter of time the waves will be straight offshore and barreling. I asked Hashimoto-san if he wanted a challenge. Kaiser’s is always a challenge because it’s powerful, shallow, and barreling.
Since the waves were junk before we paddled out, there were only 3 surfers. In 10 minutes, the waves went from junky to epic!
Hashimoto-san loved the challenge. Compared to Bowls, this was high level surfing.
Pretty nice shot passing by on the rights. Staying focused and keeping calm.
It’s been a while since I got barreled so today was a success! We never expected anything but got everything! Lucky timing…