#7 Uncle

77

If it wasn’t for my brother, there would have been no way I’d surf a wave pool.  He was determined to succeed in the expert course.  Both of us had no idea how it was going to be so I was very impressed to see him figure it out so fast.  On top of that, he rode Kimura-san’s 6’8 on this wave, which is a lot of surfboard.  

The funny thing was the number they gave him was #7.  Just like Seth Moniz!  Nice turn Uncle.  

I could see how surfing this wave pool could be good practice for maneuvers.  But just because you can do a turn in a wave pool, that doesn’t mean you can do it on a real wave in nature.  Natural surfing is 100x harder in my opinion.  

While we were there, this young Japanese surfer girl showed by example us how this wave was supposed to be ridden.  She was ripping!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide