Whale Shark Tale

101

I really wanted a work out this morning so I took out my foil.  Nobody was out at Bowls so I had it to myself.  I caught my first wave and it lasted 2 minutes totaling 6 waves.  Then my second wave the same.  So in 4 minutes and 12 waves later, I was exhausted, sweating, and content.  One of my best foil sessions in a while.

I love days like today.  Nobody around and super fun if you have the right board and right mind.

Passed by Diamond Head on the way home and was surprised how fun it looked.  Nobody was out and there were a lot of waves.  I sat there for 30 minutes trying to encourage myself to surf.  My mind was saying “go” but my body was saying “no.”  My body won.

I was imagining how many waves I would catch, and what exactly I would do on each wave.  Image training!  

Finding more photos from my travel folder.  Swimming with a huge whale shark in the Maldives was lucky, and a great experience.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide