Small waves again today so went to get some exercise on the foil. Nobody out so had the whole ocean to myself again.
When I got back to the beach, a tourist asked me if I had a motor on my foil. Haha. It’s pretty crazy how fast you can go on one of these.
The waves were only knee high but when you’re on a foil, the speed, flow, and adrenaline is like surfing an overhead wave. My foil is old so I’m going to start looking for a faster one!
I came home and dug out one of Seth’s old surfboards. It’s going to be a present for some lucky kid.
Going through old photos. This was from one of our many Mentawai trips. Tokura-san at Hollow Trees.
Toda-san on the SUP at Lances Rights.
And Matsuo-san getting barreled at Riffles. This is the best and longest right barrel in the world. It only gets this good once in every 5 years so we were very lucky to be there on this memorable day. None of us will ever forget it.
