Past Bedtime

85

OMG, compared to yesterdays wild wind and waves, today was the total opposite.  It was perfectly glassy conditions with head high clean waves.  

After Boot Camp in yesterdays wild conditions, today was too easy for Takahashi-san.  She surfed so good, so comfortable, and so confident.  

It’s unbelievable how good she got in just 2 days.  Yes I had to yell and scold her a lot, but it’s for a good cause.  That’s the only way to get better and my job is to do everything and anything to bring out the best in people.  And I don’t apologize.  Only if they cry.  Haha.  

Yesterday there were nobody out, today there were 50 surfers out.  

No crying for this girl.  She was only laughing the whole way.  Then she looked at her Apple watch and it said her last wave ridden was 155 meters.  That’s over 500 feet of pure joy!  

We went back out for a sunset surf until it turned dark.  Photos coming tomorrow as it’s already past my bedtime.  Goodnight.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide