Read the Air

88

The best spot in town today was Diamond Head.  Chest high and really good conditions.  Not too many surfers out because of the rain.  If it was sunny, there would be a hundred surfers out.  Hope it keeps raining!

I was sitting in my car keeping warm and watching the waves.  I always park as close to the wall as possible to prevent people from walking in front when I’m taking video.  BUT, they will always squeeze in somehow.  This couple walked right in front, stopped as I was taking a photo, and stayed there forever.  They had no idea I was there.  Read the air guys!  If Tony was with me, he would have said “hey, you guys think you’re made out of glass?”  Haha.

Anyway, Mr. Sun coming back tomorrow so expect a hundred surfers at Diamond Head this weekend.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide