wanted to thank everybody for checking out the video i took the other day at pipeline. i was waiting all year for the first swell but it happened to be on the pipe masters so i shot this video on the 2nd swell. i made one last year and shut off most of the audio because i thought nobody wanted to listen to the action. this time, i left it on the whole time. i was in the water for 5 hours, then came home and had problems with uploading the video in higher quality. after 3 tries of doing everything over and over, i finally got it done.
anyway, sitting in the channel is super fun. after i catch a wave, i usually take a break and watch the action. it’s funny, it’s exciting, and it’s freaking as real as it gets. being it was the first local time for big pipeline, the crowd was pretty crazy. i haven’t seen so many drop-in’s and so many wipeouts in one session out there. but everybody was overall happy and there was no tension which was good. kai garcia swam out to the lineup so we ended up talking and laughing the whole time. to me, video from the beach is boring, in the water is real, and no bullshit. you can even hear people yelling at each other to get off the wave. listen good to the “HEY! HEY!”
next big backdoor day, i’m planning to swim out and shoot from the inside. it’s a whole new world at backdoor. crazier, heavier, and 100% more dangerous. i got slammed on the reef once at pipe that day, i expect to get slammed hard on the reef every wave at backdoor. it’s a dangerous thing to do but i want to show the world how crazy surfing the north shore is. stay tuned!
anyway, if your one of the thousands that seen the video i posted on pipe too early, i deleted it and made a higher resolution video. took a long time, but worth every minute. check it out:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WSK0__XTcM[/youtube]
