Exercise and Adrenaline Rush

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It’s been so cold these past few days!!!  Even more cold where I live so it takes a lot of motivation to head down to the beach.  It’s been totally empty!  Not a single person out at Bowls again so that looked very inviting!  

Surfing in the cold is not a problem at all if you have a good wetsuit.  I was actually hot in my Dove Mad Taylor wetsuit.  This one is my warmest top so being one of the coldest days, it was perfect.

My mouth starts to water when I see little swells starting to break.  One wave will take me to 4 or 5 waves on the foil.  I was having the best time out there all to myself.  And also a great exercise.  I thought I was having a heart attack a couple times.  It’s crazy how much energy it takes to foil.  It’s the pumping, and also the adrenaline rush all at once.

Rode my last wave and watched the sunrise before heading back to the beach.

And where there’s sun and rain, of course there will be a rainbow.  An awesome morning with great exercise plus an adrenaline rush.  Took a nap right after so back in bed at 8am.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide