No Leash Kooks

101

It was supposed to be rainy and cloudy all day but the sky cleared up for a little while.  Perfect timing for an early morning foil session.

The waves were super fun again.  A little more surfers in the water today but still very uncrowded.  There were a few long boarders in the water that weren’t wearing a leash, which I don’t like.  If you’re a good surfer, it’s ok.  But if you keep on falling and losing your board, it’s not ok.  We call those kind of surfers “kooks.”  They think they’re good but they’re not.  I’ve been seeing a lot of these around recently.

Then the golden sun rose.

And displayed a beautiful rainbow.  The past 3 days were almost identical.

Then went to the new Home Depot that just opened in Mapunapuna.  This is the best one because it’s empty.  Yes, surfers like empty.  Haha.  Bought supplies and did some electrical work, plumbing, and painting.  Things are looking good at home!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide