Rupiah in Hawaii….

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ohayo gozaimasu. 6:40am tuesday morning. chilli north winds now making the waves up in the north shore junky. it looks 4-5′ or so but not that good. the conditions in town are epic, but small. looking good for a dive. but i’m too dam tired from yesterdays all day dive… keep warm and have a nice day….

i was driving home yesterday from diving and was stuck in traffic. i was so hungry so when i seen this guy next to me eating a plate lunch when he was driving, i wanted to call the cops. that’s so dangerous. but at the same time, i wish i could have been eating a plate lunch too. i was so hungry…

kazubo-san keeps on telling me that hawaii is just like okinawa. i totally agree…. mensore=aloha….

kazuma, atsuko-san, kazubo-san, and shoki. we have fun in hawaii just like how we have fun in okinawa…. i’m so glad to know such nice people….

and last, i was sitting outside of imanas waiting for everybody. i looked down and seen this coin. it looked familiar… it was a 100 rupiah coin from indonesia. what the heck was an indonesian coin doing at a bench in front of a japanese restaurant in hawaii???? was garut here??? isn’t that kind of weird??? anyway, i kept it because it might bring me good luck… maybe a bintang will pop up in my refridge….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide