Zoo to Peace

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I don’t remember the last time going out to the West side.  But today was the day if you wanted clean waves.  It was a beautiful morning.

Boot Camp continues.  Imagine taking off on a wave and your coach is yelling in your ear?  Haha.  

If you go to the cleanest spot on the whole island, don’t expect to surf by yourself.  It got really crowded so we left.  It was like a zoo out there today!  

After that crazy morning session, we drove to the other side of the island and paddled out to a secret spot that never lets me down.  Always calm, peaceful, and nobody around.  

Imagine going from a zoo to a natural park.  That’s what it felt like.  It was so peaceful that you forget where you are.

We exchanged waves, practiced, and did more Boot Camp.  No matter how peaceful it can get, I’m still yelling in your ear.  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide