Crispy North Winds

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It’s kind of hard to predict where will be good on days like today.  North shore too big and the South shore too small.  We first went to check Diamond Head and it was beautiful, but flat.

Watched the sky turn orange, watched the view of Molokai and Lanai islands in the background.  It was here when I thought we should take a gamble.  Got back in the car and headed to the other side of the island.

We arrived right in time for the sunrise.  And guess what?  The waves were super good!

I said “hurry and go out because the waves are good and there are only 4 surfers out.  It will get crowded soon when everyone finds out.”

The North winds are cold and crispy.  Blowing offshore and grooming the ocean like an oil painting.  Only a few times a year this place gets clean like this.

As the morning went along, the waves got bigger and better.

I’m still wondering where everybody was today?

Yes, it was this amazing!  Sorry you missed it.  Maybe tomorrow?  Maybe not…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide