Hunter or Hunted?

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Yesterday afternoon we went for Round 2.  Today’s lesson was about “The Rock Dance.”  One of my favorite secret spots that will never get crowded.  The reason is because it’s so dangerous to enter.  The rocks are sharp, slippery, and waves smashing up upon it.  Timing is everything.  If you time it wrong, you will get smashed by a wave onto the rocks.  If you fall, you will get smashed by a wave onto the rocks.  So yes, it’s very dangerous and you least worry is dinging your surfboard.    

And it’s even harder coming out.  Now you have to worry about sharp slippery rocks, big crushing waves, and sea urchins poking your feet.  Once again, your least worries is dinging your surfboard.  But I love this place.

I don’t think we’ll ever go to the West side again.  It was just way too crowded and way too aggressive.  You literally have to be a hunter.  If not, you will be hunted.  

Three guys on one wave?  Not fun at all.  Never again…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide