
There’s only one place in the world where you will find me on the first day of each year. That place is the ocean right at first light. Had a lovely time with the boys today!

The last time I surfed with Konosuke-kun was 5 years ago. Now he’s a man! And he didn’t forget how to surf. He surfed so good!

Ryu-san surfing nice and strong again. One of the coolest doctors in the world.

Father and son surfing at first light on the first day of year is cool. Riding a wave together makes it even cooler. I love it!

I’ve seen a huge boost in confidence in this surfer after surfing North shore. And that confidence is growing and growing every day. It’s amazing how a surf session could change your life.

Now everything will be a little more comfortable in the ocean. This man has no fear anymore.

I was waiting for this day to bring out my fresh brand new wetsuit. I wanted to start it off right. It felt warm, comfortable, and cool. Dove for life…


