Mid-length Hunters

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Day 3 of 2024 and another early morning Boot Camp with the boys.  Ryu-san is getting a lot better!

After surfing crowded Tracks last week, this surfer has changed.  I was explaining to him about being more aggressive in the water.  Trying to be more of a hunter instead of being the hunted.  Ever since then, he’s averaging 30 waves per session.  The hunt is on!

Konosuke-kun wanted to shortboard so I brought a mid-length board.  I thought it would be very difficult for him because it’s a big transition from a 11’0 longboard he’s been riding.  The first few waves, he was having a hard time.  BUT, the youth always love the challenge.

His first 5 wave, he fell and I got his board in my face 5 times.  Abunai!

Ryu-san surfing very calm as Konosuke-kun in the back still struggling.  Haha.

Then once this kid figured it out, he stood up on every single wave after.  Amazing!

Now Konosuke-kun is going to be more addicted to surfing.  And he’ll probably never go back to the longboard.  Haha.

The competitiveness runs in the family.  Papa Ryu-san tried it out and stood up on his very first wave.  Very impressive!

This guy caught 30 waves this morning and 40 waves this afternoon.  The newborn HUNTER!  More photos of today coming tomorrow.  Goodnight for now…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide