Yesterday afternoon was so good. Only 4 other surfers so we basically caught every single wave that broke. Between the 3 of us, we must have rode 80 waves!
Naito-san said she’s never caught so many waves in her life. Each wave she was getting better and better. Very smooth and lots of flow.
And never falls. All perfect rides from the take off to the very end. Such a cool surfer.
When you can finally smile on the take off, you know you’re calm. And when you’re calm, life is good.
I forgot how dangerous Boot Camp is. I try my best to ride along on the side yelling instructions and taking photos. But, it’s not the safest thing to do. I get boards in my face all day long.
And if you ever got a 11’0 hard longboard in your face before, it hurts. It can actually knock you out. But nobody said Boot Camp was safe.
Another one that almost hit me. That’s about 12 times in the first 3 days of the year. Every night I go home, my hands hurt. But better than my face huh?
