Another day of about 20 box jellyfish on the beach so there was hardly anyone out. These boys don’t care because they can endure any kind of pain.
Ryu-san’s oldest boy is 20 years old. Shunosuke has a bad shoulder from actively playing rugby. He was supposed to get surgery last month but postponed it because he wanted to surf on this trip in Hawaii. And even with a bad shoulder, he wanted to ride a shorter board. Amazingly, he stood right up and surfed really good. I was more concerned about his shoulder than anything.
Ryu-san on even a smaller board this morning. Strong body and strong mind will get you far in life. He’s a great example of that. A great Father and role model to his 3 boys.
If his boys can do it, so can Ryu-san. I just love watching their competitiveness that’s pushing all of them to greatness.
After a week and hundreds of waves on the longboard, today was back on the short board. It’s a very hard transition, but this man figured it out.
This is one of the nicest bottom turns I’ve seen him do. Impressive.
On the paddle back in, Shunosuke-kun’s shoulder got dislocated. He waited calmly on the beach until his Father came in. The very calm Doctor Ryu-san told him to lie down, then he gradually popped his shoulder back in. Both of them so calm which was very impressive because I was the total opposite. I panicked! They were laughing at me. But I still don’t think it’s funny. Haha.
Went back out for Round 2 but too tired to talk about it. Goodnight for now.
