Right before this recent storm came, Diamond Head was looking super green. Then we had more rain in the past 2 days so it’s only going to get a lot more beautiful.
I drove past there yesterday and today and it didn’t look very inviting. Windy and junky. I’ve been surfing so much recently so my body needed the sauna more than the ocean. So it was back in the sauna. Tomorrow will be back in the ocean for sure!
When we first started foiling, I bet everybody hated us. We were flying in between surfers, catching the best waves, and screaming like little kids. This is one of my favorite foiling photos. I’m in front while Tony Moniz is in back as we were flying around like kids. We both weren’t that good back then so it was very dangerous. Not for us, but for them. All we cared about was having the most fun out there. And yes we did…
