Wild Monk West Winds

107

When I checked the wind at 4am this morning, it was pretty calm.  Knowing that the strong West winds were coming again today, we had to make a decision.  And that decision was to go out and surf before that happened.

At a normally very crowded spot, there was nobody out.  The waves were super fun and we had it all to ourselves the whole time.  There has been nobody out here for the past 4 days and today was the best it’s been.

This big monk seal came up to join us.  We were more surprised than him.

It was just hanging out in the lineup coming very close to us.  A very cool moment with nature.  After about an hour of surfing, you could feel the winds picking up so it was time to go.  The anchor was stuck and took some wrestling to get it loose.  The ocean turned wild and ugly.  Thank goodness we made it in.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide