Secret Like North

138

We looked at Diamond Head early this morning and it was crowded.  So we got back in the car, drove a few minutes, and paddled out to a secret spot with only two other surfers out.  The sun was coming up and the waves started to get bigger.

Solid overhead sets with a lot of power.  It felt like we were surfing the North shore.  After a good hour of solid rides, we got back in the car and headed back to check Diamond Head again.

Diamond Head was irresistible.  Super clean and really fun.

All we needed were a few of these to be content.  Went in for a break and we already knew where we wanted to surf again.

Yes, noon at Diamond Head was as good as it gets.  Head high and really clean.  I haven’t surfed Diamond Head this good in a very long time.

And the weather finally warmed up too.

Another great session today.  Happy faces everywhere!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide