Taking a 99% Chance?

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I never go to the North Shore in the afternoon unless I know there will be a 99% chance of scoring!  We pull up, the winds are onshore.  As we paddle out, the winds switch offshore and becomes a surfers dream.   I travel around the world and pay thousands of dollars for sessions like this.  This one took 1 hour in the car and 15 dollars of gas.  The only 2 other surfers out with us were also smiling the whole time.    

A monk seal on the beach and lots of turtles in the water.  Crystal clear visibility and the most perfect waves you could ever ask for.  

I was paddling into a 5′ set and didn’t yell “go” to my student because I thought that wave was way too big for her.  As I stood up, I looked in front and she was already riding it.  Haha.  Just the white wash alone is overhead so imagine how big this take off was.  I was so proud of her!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide