South and Choppy

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Another day of South winds and choppy surf so it was straight to Boot Camp at sunrise.  Today’s lesson was about flow, style, and reading the ocean.  

When the waves get choppy, you have to slow everything down to connect with the chops.   If you surf normally, you will look a little wild.  Slowing down will make you look a lot more controlled.  And control looks great.  

We’ve been paddling out to the main peak and catching sets.  Riding them all the way to the beach.  I’d follow behind and then I’d paddle back out fast so I can get a wave for myself.

Then I’d wait for a set, catch it, and ride it as far as possible.  At the same time, watching to see if the girls are paddling back out the correct way.  If not, I’m going to run them over on purpose.  Haha.  

If you catch a set from the outside and ride it all the way to the beach, that is a 1:40 second ride.  Where else on the island can you ride a wave for that long?  

The girls were so excited after Round 1 that they wanted to go back out for Round 2 this afternoon.  This time I sat on the top and documented all their rides.  They were hunting, being aggressive, and riding the waves all the way to the end like they’re supposed to.  

I was sitting under the tree filming the girls and all of a sudden, the sprinklers came on and got me all wet.  OMG!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide