Drawing Attention

110

We chose to surf Bowls this morning because of the conditions.  Today will be the last day in a while where it will look clean like this.  Starting tomorrow, the ugly South/West winds will be back for a while.  Another reason we chose Bowls is because the lineup is regulated.  Unlike Diamond Head, you won’t see beginners, visitors, or dangerous situations.  This morning only had 3 locals out that won’t allow those things.  So yes, it was very peaceful!  And good too!      

When the locals paddle for a wave, just get out of the way.  Then you won’t get yelled at, or run over.  Or both.  

This girl knows how to surf with the locals.  The only one yelling at her is me.  Haha.  

The things I see on the street recently is pretty crazy.  I could see if this was near a beach, but this is in the city!  No wonder there are so many accidents.  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide