East/South/West Boot Camp Challenge

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Since the waves were onshore and junky all over the island, we decided to check out the East side.  It was flat!  Maybe go for a dive?  No thank you because it was too cold.  So we headed back to town and decided to challenge ourselves.

When the wind is strong and onshore like today, the waves will get big.  Big and super challenging.  Nobody out but if you have the right board and have the right mind, anything is possible.

There were some pretty solid size sets.  Very tricky to catch, but once you do, it will connect and connect all the way to the inside.  Ben Aipa use to train me on waves like this so it’s pretty easy.  Now we’re trying to make it easy for this girl.

Big take offs, big white washes, and very exciting rides.  This girl had so much fun that she didn’t want to come in.

Most of the time, this will be your view.  Lots of wind blowing in your eyes, and lots of salt water in your face.  After an hour of this, your body feels like you surfed all day long.

I went back out to Hawaii Kai to watch the soccer game.

Mateus is so cute!  Watching him run around the field chasing the ball was hilarious.  He did so well today and almost scored a goal!  Next time he will.  Then I’m going to run on the field and carry him on my shoulders!  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide