Hands on Experience

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Nobody surfs on days like this because the ocean is too wild.  But now the girls love it because of the challenge.  And also because nobody is out except us.  So yes, why not?  

Getting out is tricky because of the strong wind blowing into your eyes.  The current is different, and you have to go through 40 waves each time you paddle back out.  Nobody said it was easy.

But the rides are amazing.  Your adrenaline is racing as you’re trying to hang on till the end.  

I’ve always loved days like this.  You feel so much more connected to the ocean.  We were having a great time.  Then I see this boat with a lot of people trying to go out through the channel.  I told the girls to watch because boats shouldn’t be out on days like this.  They try to go out, turn around, and when they were heading back in, a wave flipped over their boat.  All 7 of them went flying off the boat.  OMG!  

When we got there, they were all hanging on to the bottom of their boat.  Little did they know, the wind and current was taking them right into the lineup.  An angry lineup with overhead waves was going to make things twice as bad for them.  The rest of the story later.

I always tell people that days like today are the days you will learn the most.  The ocean turns wild and you have to react when things like this happen.  The girls got a hands on experience that they will probably never forget.  And a hands on experience that might help them save lives in the future.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide