Can you swim? Then swim now!

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It was another wild morning!  The girls wanted the challenge again and today was just that.  Much bigger and a lot windier than yesterday.  They were so excited!  I wasn’t because my eyes were still burning from the past few days of strong salty wind blowing into my face.  Haha.

So happy to arrive a usually crowded beach that for now we have to ourselves.  Sometimes I forget how beautiful it is.

I looked down and saw the boat that capsized yesterday smashing against the rocks.  It will be another day or so until they can safely salvage it.  But I’m sure it’s in hundreds of pieces by now.

Looking at this photo, the waves seem manageable.  But it’s pretty hard.  I timed the wave intervals and it was 3 seconds between wave to wave.  Getting out took 50 waves rolling over your head.  Pretty cool to see the girls getting stronger and stronger.  Now they look comfortable out there in a very uncomfortable place.

The waves have so much power.  It just pushes you from one wave into another.  So connecting the waves was the way to success.

When I first got to the capsized boat, the first thing I asked was “is everyone accounted for?”  The reason is I knew the boat was full of people but didn’t know how many were aboard.  So asking if everyone is accounted for is important.  You don’t want to start rescuing people if some are missing.  The second thing I asked was “can you all swim?”  They answered yes.  I told them to jump in the water now and start swimming to the channel.  They had no idea that the strong current was taking the boat right into the lineup at Bowls. Less than 5 minutes later, the boat getting pounded by waves and ended up on the reef.   The last place you want to be is on a capsized boat that’s about to get smashed by a hundred waves.  I’m surprised nobody got hurt because so many things could have gone wrong…

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide