An Epic Present Tuesday

90

When we pulled up to Bowls, the girls were disappointed.  It was almost too clean and perfect for them.  Haha.  It’s so funny that now they prefer big, ugly, and challenging surf.  I don’t know where everyone was because it was only us out at Bowls again.  The rights were so good!  

The winds turned North at one time so the ocean surface got really clean.  The waves were still overhead so I kind of had an idea for the afternoon.  

After a nap, we took out Mayuki and we went searching for the perfect wave.  

OMG, we pull up to this spot and it was absolutely perfect!  Overhead, clean, and some of the longest rights on the island.  The girls were charging on the waves, and smiling on the way back out.  This girl caught the best wave of her life today.  She asked me if I saw it and I said “no.”  But I did.  Haha.  

After all those days of challenging surf, today seemed almost too easy for them.  It was the kind of day you take what you learned in the past, and perform in the present!  That’s what they did…

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide