I couldn’t believe how crowded Pipeline/Backdoor was! OMG, there were about a hundred surfers out. Surfers getting major injuries every day. I still feel that I’m still capable of getting waves out there, but the question is, “is it worth the risk?” The answer has always been “yes.”
That last swell we had in town was amazing. There is a spot that is a wave magnet and when it gets good, it’s the best right hand wave on the South shore. And to make it even better, there is a nice parking spot for Mayuki right outside the break. This was the best boat trip we had in a very long time.
