Jellyfish and Chigasaki

144

When ever there are box jellyfish warnings, I’m hoping there aren’t any on the beach.  Fortunately, this morning had a lot on the beach at Bowls.  So we got back in the car and headed to Diamond Head.  

Thank goodness because Diamond Head was so good!  Head high and empty.  The cold wind and jellyfish must have kept everyone home because only a few surfers showed up on this Saturday morning.  

The waves were challenging, but once you got one, it was a long wall all the way from the outside to the inside.  If you’re lucky, you can do 8 turns.  

At one time, it was only the 2 of us.  Riding waves and enjoying one of the best Diamond Head sessions in a while.

We came in pretty content.  Smiling up the hill and all the way home.  

I was going to take a nap so was looking for a boring documentary on Netflix.  Then I came across something that gave me chicken skin.  OMG, one of my all time favorite bands in concert.  I watched it, sang along, teared up, and remembered the good old days when I use to live in Shonan…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide