I want to thank the local that gave me a flashlight early this morning. Without it, I would have fell down the steep hill. We knew the waves were going to be super good so we couldn’t wait to get down. 
Good to see the local boys out there sharing the waves. I’ve known this guy Darrel for about 40 years. We were talking about life and how fortunate we are to still be alive, and to still be surfing. So many of our mutual friends passed away so we gratefully appreciate every moment, every wave, and every smile. 
Local boy John was out there ripping it up backside. 
Boot Camp continues as this girl got one of her best waves of her life this morning. She rode it to the beach and paddled out with the biggest smile. Today’s Boot Camp wasn’t about quantity, it was about quality. 
The water at Diamond Head rarely gets this clear. Sitting way on the outside mesmerized by the clarity. 
Usually I sit inside doing Boot Camp but recently I’ve been going the furthest out and catching the biggest waves. I won’t sit around watching everyone else catching the best waves anymore. Sorry guys, it’s my turn. 
I waited for the best waves and caught the 6 best waves I’ve ever ridden out there. It was absolutely perfect today and it doesn’t get better than this. 
Then I went window shopping. I’m still contemplating on purchasing a piece of history. A surfboard shaped by my Coach Ben Aipa back in the early 1970’s. Ummmm, should I buy it?
